I have had a long break from working on my project for a number of reasons. I am now anxious to move on to the next steps. During this delay, I have still been in the process of working out how to best approach my project. A friend of mine, Dave Sanderson, that I met at one of the Auto Restoration Courses at BCIT, came over one day and after an hour or so of analysis, he helped me to come up with an easier way to go about getting my body fixed up.
The 4-door body and the 2-door body it turns out are almost identical. The 4-door is just 4 inches longer than the 2-door. The way they stretched the body was to use a "4 inch joiner strip" welded between the front and rear sections of the body. There are a couple of minor differences in the rear wheel-wells but that is about it.
Therefore, we decided that I could basically:
- remove the roof and B-pillars from the 4-door
- cut out the 4 inch joiner strip
- remove the B-pillars
- re-join the front and rear body sections together
- remove the roof (with the rear quarter sections still attached) from the 2-door
- fit the roof and quarters from the 2-door onto the shortened 4-door platform
- fit the front doors properly before doing the final welding
- patch a couple of small areas of rust that will remain
- rework the inner rear wheel-wells to match curve of 2-door rear fenders to keep water out of car.
AND PRESTO!! I SHOULD HAVE A SOLID 2-DOOR BODY FOR MY "DAYTONA SS"
Sounds doable for a beginner like me, doesn't it?? Let's see, how do I turn on this welder again??
I have added a bunch of pictures and notes to the photo album that you can access by copying and pasting the following URL to your browser: https://goo.gl/photos/iNzK2PGqN9k4PWHa8
Any feedback re this site (and the photos) would be appreciated. Updates to follow as work progresses.
Ron Cann
